Serekunda promises to be every bit as hectic as one might expect from The Gambia’s largest covered market. Loosely covered that is, at a push. Dried fish lays scattered across bright blue plastics, vibrant oranges and reds fill dusty brown canvas sacks, all stacked up and surrounded by a confusion of exotic scents. Sewing machines tap tap tap all day as vast lengths of multicoloured fabrics join together to create vivid masterpieces. Smoke fills the dusky alleyways, incense smoke burning on every corner for religious gatherings hidden behind closed doors. We catch a glimpse of two score men praying and bowing, dense shafts of smoke billowing through the air, chants emanating through the fray. We’re suddenly spotted observing the event and are physically ejected from the alleyway, the makeshift corrugated door slamming shut behind us.