Nothing remains in this desolate no man’s land except the stark battered concrete shells of unfinished mansions and deserted churches eroded by time. Surrounded by dense cloud, isolated from humanity, and hundreds of miles from the nearest convenience store these vestiges stand proud over-watching Bokor national park and its hidden inhabitants.
A simple concrete road network navigates adventurers from shell to shell, passing vast swathes of rain forest cut back for the future development of three hotels, a reservoir turned boating lake, and an Italian-style complex offering upmarket apartments to the wealthy.
After an afternoon of patchy weather and wet cameras, an empty gas tank leaves me free-wheeling back down the treacherous 30km mountain pass ‘taking the line’ all the way with little regard for the oncoming traffic. To brake now is to walk home.