The Gelada baboon (Theropithecus gelada) exists exclusively across parts of the northern Ethiopian Highlands, living in unison with nature, tourism and, increasingly, urbanisation. Tracking the primates across the Ethiopian Great Rift Valley is not always an easy task, but with a local guide helping we soon catch up to the nearest group – a small troop of perhaps twenty ranging in age and gender, dominated by a single flame-haired territorial male.